Friday, July 21, 2006

Vodka and old friends... fabulous!

Somewhere about half way across Siberia, bored of my own company and that of strangers, I decided to take a detour from the usual trans-siberian route and head down south to Volgograd. A few text messages later and a plan had formed; I would take the train from Yekaterinburg to Volgograd and stay with my freind Nadya there for one night before heading on to Moscow and my flight home. In Irkutsk station, however, the oh-so-helpful woman behind the desk told me that there were no tickets available. Ach well, I sighed, 'twas not to be.

On reaching Yekaterinburg, however, I thought that there was no harm in asking again and this time I was informed that there were tickets to Volgograd available, but only in Kupe class (which is not my preferred class, it's more expensive and you run the risk of being stuck in a compartment with 3 drunk men, as opposed to the more open platscartny carriages). Marvellous, I thought, and proceeded to buy a ticket.

I spent one night in Yekaterinburg and saw the place where the Romanovs were killed (although the actual house was knocked down and there's now a memorial and a big church) along with some more Lenin statues etc. It seemed a nice city but not the most interesting place in the world, so one night was more than long enough (especially as I got horribly bitten by mozzies, man, they love my English blood!).

The train journey was kinda as expected, that is, I was in a compartment with 3 drunken Russki men, Victor, Kostya and I didn't catch the name of the third. Much eating and drinking of vodka and beer ensued, which I was, of course obliged to take part in. At some point not long after leaving Yekaterinburg we passed from Asia into Europe but I was quickly passing from sober to drunk and so I missed it. Anyway, at this point there is a scene missing and we shall cut to the next morning...

The boys were awake and drinking vodka around 9 or so and I tried to sleep on but wasn't allowed. I did, however, refuse all offers of vodka/ beer as I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have made me feel better, whatever they said! Anyway, the boys left at Samara, thank God, leaving me opportunity to sleep of the effects of the alcohol. A lovely girl called Alyona joined the train a bit later on and we had a really nice chat.

THe next morning I arrived in Volgograd. Fantastic! It really felt like coming home. I made my way to Nad's place and once showered and refreshed we had a great chat and catch-up. Then, she asked if she could possibly take advantage of my fabulous cooking skills and could I possibly cook her some chilli. No bother, says I, and it was done. After lunch we headed into town meeting my friend Dasha (my Russian little sister) who has grown up a lot since I last saw her. She's now 17 and about to start uni (she was only 14 when I left). Had a nice wander and then met up with some more friends for pre-birthday celebrations. A fantastic night was had by all!

Anyway, will have to cut this short as my time is running out at this internet cafe. I shall finish updating you all once I'm back in the UK (tomorrow).

Love,
Lottie x

PS Sounds like you had an exciting trip home Ezio, you'll have to tell me all about it!

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Happy Birthday Lottie!

Happy Birthday Lottie! Not sure if you're gonna get to read this today, but we're thinking of you! When do you get back? Conor and I are in Ireland until next Wednesday, so we'll see you then, I guess. Anyway I hope you're having a great day.

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Beautiful Baikal

Thanks for the advice Ezio. Although, I don't know what you are trying to imply... I am well known for my sober, celibate lifestyle and so advice about "minding the gap", whatever that is supposed to mean, is completely uneccessary!

Oh yes, congratulations to the Italians on the World Cup win. I saw highlights on the news (including Zidane's sending off, which looked extremely well deserved to me) and scenes of celebration in Roma. It sounds like you've all been having a bit too much fun in my absence, if you ask me! I can't believe that you went and 'did the double' in my absence (bastids!). The only explanation is that I have negative knowledge and when you subtract it from the team it becomes more intelligent! If I ever meet anyone with some real knowledge, the world will implode (or something). But seriously, well done. I'm also dissapointed at having missed a really gay party but I look forward to seeing the pictures... And Dave, you really should take Edo up on his offer, I mean, you never know how much you might enjoy it. It could be the start of something wonderful...

Irkutsk seems like a nice place, I've wandered around a bit, and yes, the women are stunning. What can I say, I feel like I'm surrounded by models the whole time. Yesterday I headed off to the lovely village of Listvyanka on the picturesque shores of Lake Baikal. In the morning the weather was cool and cloudy but then it brightened up in the afternoon (leading to my second bout of sunburn - dammit!). I wandered around on the shore for a bit and went for a paddle in the icy, but crystal clear, water (I was later told that it's about 6C at the moment, brrr). It was really nice to have a wander in the countryside and there's so much interesting to look at in a naturey kind of way. There were tons and tons of butterflies (I think I counted at least 10 different species), lots of birds and some of the most bizzarre insects I have ever seen. Of course, plenty of trees and flowers too. Baikal is a unique environment (so all the guidebooks keep telling me) and apparently over 80% of the species native to it are found there and nowhere else. I would probably know more about this except I decided that over 3 quid was more than I wanted to pay to get into the Ecological Museum (Russians only pay about 1 pound). Anyway, it was a lovely day by the lake!

I'm off to Yekaterineburg this afternoon (not stopping in Krasnayarsk Ezio, I'm afraid) and should arrive there in a couple of days time. Before I go, I shall leave you with my thoughts on Russian men (I'm sure you all want to know after having such fun at Edo and Tom's party ;-)):
Whilst it is not unkown to spot some very handsome specimines over here (ah, Sasha, Roman, I remember thee well...) the are not as ubiquitous as the beautiful Russian female. The fact that Russki men don't quite live up to the standard of the girls is not helped by men's fashion over here; highly patterned shirts in summer and what can only be described as 'Christmas' jumpers in the winter, incredibly pointy shoes and man-bags (that is, male handbags) No offence to the Russians (or to those of you from Italy, where I believe such bags are also popular) but they look REALLY silly. I'm sure they could be useful but in my experience a man either has pockets enough for what he needs to carry (taylors being kind enough to furnish male clothing with pockets) or he has too much stuff to fit in a small bag. So, I think, handbag = uneccessary. So, all in all, the girls are hot but dress like hookers and the boys are not so hot and dress badly. Here endeth the lesson.

That's all for now but I'm sure I will be in touch soon.

Lottie x

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Irkutsk


First and foremost about Irkutsk: AIDS. A disturbing percentage of the Irkutsk's youth has AIDS, so mind the gap. Second: stay away from the ibiza like island; it's depressing. if you read this in time, there is a very decent cheap hotel north from the river, overlookin the 'chinese' market - which is the polite way to say that it sells crap. oh, and related to the 'first and foremost' section: female speciemen in Irkutsk are particularly stunnin. It must be the lake, but more likely the fact that it is the oxbridge of siberia. Things to sea: the huge stain of Ezio's blood by the river, just off the chatolic church (what does that mean, by the way... that I have shed my blood next to the only chatolic church in that third of earth...). Also piece of flyway on the main square - there is a billion rubles prize for any foreigner who guesses what the flyway lookin monolite on the square is or was or will be... other than that, if you find old soviet farts sellin books on the streets, do buy something.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

I know I needed a shower but still....

Yes, after 51 hours on the train, a shower was certainly needed received gladly. However, the rain that has been falling heavily all day is not so welcome. Ach well, as I said to some of the locals, it's just like Britain!

Quick update on the trip:
Now in Ulan Ude and tomorrow I'm heading to Irkutsk, from where I hope to visit Lake Baikal amongst other things. I'm taking the train during the day, in order to see the veiws of Baikal as we pass.
So far on my trip I have:
Been in Russia for 17 days.
Spent over 100 hours on trains.
Visited 10 Cathederals/ Churches/ Monasteries.
Had sunburn once.
Been rained on only 3 times.
Eaten more blini (pancakes), ice-cream and pirozhki (pies) than I can count (finally answering the time-honoured question of "Who ate all the pies?").
Drunk less beer/ vodka than expected.
And, seen over 20 Lenins (in monument/ picture/ mural form, including the big, giant head here in Ulan Ude).

Anyway, Khabarovsk (where unfortunately I didn't find such a cheap place to stay :-(, everywhere I go the cheapest places are full up so I end up spending more than desirable) was a nice place. I didn't do much except wander round the streets (which were very leafy and pleasant) and hang out in Ploschad Leninna drinking beer. It was nice and relaxing though.

The trip here from Khabarovsk was also very pleasant, except for the fact that it was horribly warm in the carriage and the windows didn't open. Yes, Ezio, I am travelling platzkartni but I haven't encountered any of the Russian army yet (more's the pity). Instead, in the immediate vacinity were a lovely family (Yulia (who looked about 14 but was actually 26) and her daughter Ulia, her sister Sveta and their mother) and another mother and daughter (Sveta (again) and Ira). The second Sveta is actually an English teacher so, of course, we chatted a lot. I had some good (if rather more difficult) chats with the aforementioned family as well. Also in the carriage was a group of kids who were going to Baikal on a trip and once they discovered there was an English person on board they all wanted to come and chat. The most forward of them was Maxim, who's 12 and likes ice hockey (this much I learnt in our little chat). On the whole it was a very enjoyable trip.

Ulan Ude is also very pleasant (despite the rain). I've visited a couple of museums here and the catherderal. The babushka working at the geological museum (free, woo hoo!) was very friendly and said that I spoke very good Russian without an accent (yay me!). The historical museum (not free, unfortunately) was also very good. Lots of artifacts from Buryat (the local native people) shamanism, Buddhism and the Russian Orthodox church intermingled with some art by a contemporary Buryat artist. People had left money next to a lot of the exhibits, presumably for kind of offering, which was interesting.

Yes, I know that I've already been going on for ages but I have something to add, which I was thinking about on the train:
I just want to tell you all how stunning the Russian women are. I hadn't forgotten this, of course but everywhere I go, I'm blown away! Ezio, I'm sure that you noticed this, all you other boys are certianly missing out! I mean, provided that you like the leggy, blonde model type, that is ;-). Admittedly, they do have a tendency to dress like, errr.... 'ladies of negotiable virtue', if you see what I mean. But, hey, if you've got it, flaunt it, I guess. And I'm sure none of the boys are complaining. High-heels, endless legs, a tiny skirt and equally tiny (and often see-through) top. Of course, hair, make-up and nails are always immaculate. And, noow that I'm in the far east there's loads of exotic, oriental types as well, just as beautiful and immaculately dressed as the western Russians. It is nice to be surrounded by such beauty but it can be rather disheartening to one who is *ahem* less than slender and not exactly model-beautiful and also in manky travelling clothes with no make-up on! *sigh* Ach well, such is life. *Reaches for another Baltika and some more (delicious and inexpensive) ice-cream...*

I shall save my comments on Russian men for another time, as I think I have gone on for more than long enough! I'm off to have that beer...

Poka!
Lottie x

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Khabarovsk


this is what awaits Transiberian Lottie in Khabarovsk: long smelly men, who have had enough of their vertical life, and are dying to lay horizontally. Anyway, Transiberian Lottie, you will read this after having found a place to stay - but if where you are does not suit you, then head for the place where this picture was taken. Exiting the train station, across the big empty square, start for the river keeping on the right side of the big road, and you find it after a couple of hundred metres - it's like the cheapest place we found in the whole fuckin country. a couple of quid a night or something.
things to see in Khabarovsk: river amur, and maybe you should try and swim to china, which is the land you see just across the water. there is an amazingly soviet war monument if you head east from the main square by the river.
oh, mind the locals, they will try to do all sorts of things to you. on the other hand, hanging around in the huge fountain square at night guarantees making friends

that's it for now: how was the train? were you in plazkarny with half the russian army?

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Movin' on East

Well, well done to Conor, Chris and Tom! I will repeat, you are all stars! I know that it's no easy task to move the vast quantity0 of material possessions that I have acquired over the last (nearly) 26 years, so "Spasibo bolshoye" as they would say over here. You will all be invited to share the vodka that I will (inevitably) bring back from this marvellous country. I think some Russian style drinking will be in order! I'm pretty excited about coming home to a whole new flat (and flatmate...).

Back in Moscow briefly, after a whistlestop trip to the beautiful St. Petersburg. Have been going to a lot of the usual tourist spots in both Moscow and St. Petes but have also managed to go some new (for me) and more unusual places. The Mayakovski Museum in Moscow is absolutely amazing and unlike anything I have ever seen before. Maykovski was a poet/ revolutionary/ artist and the building that he lived in has been transformed into this amazing modernist/ futurist museum dedicated to him. All the unsual things from his life (letters, clothes, posters he designed, books he read/ wrote) are displayed but not in the usual glass cases. Instead they are all set within these amazing futurist installations at weird angles with big girders and sculptures intermingled. I really can't describe it but it was fantastic. In St. Petes we went to the Zoological Museum. It's mostly stuffed animals, in a variety of lifelike poses, the highlight of which is a 44, 000 yr old mammoth that was unfrozen from the ice in Siberia in 1900 and stuffed. It's lost most of its hair so it kind just looks like an elephant. Pretty cool though! They also have a live insect zoo which was pretty cool but makes your skin crawl a little.

Have also visited a variety of cathederals/ churches and parks, have drunk plenty of Russki beer and some vodka. Living off street food which mostly consists of pancakes, pies and pastries with some fruit and veg thrown in occasionally for variety. Have also been overdosing on the tasty ice-cream. Well, when it's 20p for a delicious cone it can't be helped!

Have now safely deposited my sister on the train to the airport (Domedova) and I'm now off to a different airport (Sheremetovo-1) on the other side of the city to fly to Vladivostok. Am feeling rather nervous about this whole thing, although I'm really excited too. The trip to St. Petes and back really got me in the mood and I had a nice chat with a lovely man called Vladimir. Even with my terribly broken Russian we managed to understand each other (I think). Even if we didn't we both enjoyed chatting for an hour or so. I think this bodes well for the rest of the journey!

Weather remains hot and sunny but I have no idea what the Far East has in store for me...

Well, I think that's more than enough for now.

Ciao,
Lottie x

P.S. Ezio, I think my first stop will be Khabarovsk and then maybe Ulan Ude (couldn't miss the giant head after all). I don't think I'll be stopping in Chita - unless you would recommend otherwise. Any advice?